Sages, synagogues, and seaside: Discovering Jewish history along the French Riviera

The French Riviera, known for its scenic beauty, also holds significant Jewish historical and cultural sites, as explored during a five-day trip from Marseille to Nice. The region was home to the Hachmei Provence, influential rabbis from the 12th-15th centuries. Marseille, a bustling port city with 80,000 Jews, features a monumental 19th-century synagogue and numerous kosher establishments. The journey included visits to Avignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon, and L'Isle sur la Sorgue, towns where Jews, known as "Les Juifs des Papes," lived under papal protection after being expelled from France in 1306.

"Some things we are not permitted to forget,"

said Rabbi Chanan Levin of Avignon's synagogue, referring to the yellow ribbons for hostages. Key sites included Avignon's unique round synagogue, Carpentras's active 1367 synagogue with a historic mikveh, and Cavaillon's former synagogue, now a museum. While antisemitism was not personally experienced, it was acknowledged as a concern among local Jews.